What is 'Mole'?

The word "Mole" (pronounced moh-lay) comes from the Aztec word "Molli," meaning "concoction," "stew" or "sauce." To the unenlightened, Mole is a Mexican chocolate sauce. In Mexico, Mole is a hundred dishes in a hundred homes. It varies from town to town and family to family. The most famous Mole, "Mole Poblano de Guajolote" (made with Wild Turkey--the bird, not the booze) is a special complex dish carefully woven together using dried chiles, nuts, seeds, vegetables, spices and chocolate (preferably ground, toasted cacao beans, but Mexican chocolate, such as Ibarra brand, is acceptable). 
 

Some refer to Mole Poblano as the National dish of Mexico. But there are many, many Moles, including Green Mole with Tomatillos, Green Mole with Pumpkinseeds, Orange-Red Mole, Red Mole, Yellow Mole and the famous peasant Soup, Mole de Olla. To some, Mole is a sauce poured on enchiladas and heated up in a microwave. To others, Mole is a Turkey (or Chicken) stew. To me, Mole is my expression of passion for cooking, especially cooking with chiles. It is a tribute to 17th century tradition while it allows me to create a new dish every time I make it. (Mine isn’t as spicy as the one's my relatives make!!!)

WHERE DOES MOLE COME FROM?

There are many stories about the historical origins of Mole. They almost all agree that Mole was born between 1680 and 1688 in one of the convents in the Mexican city, Puebla de los Ángeles. The most frequently told story is that Sor Andrea, sister superior of the Santa Rosa Convent, created the dish to honor the Archbishop for having a convent built for her order. Another spin suggests she was honoring the Viceroy, Don Tomás Antonio de la Cerda y Aragón. She wanted to create the perfect dish, trying to blend the ingredients of the New World with those of the old. 

Another tale puts the spoon in the able hands of Friar Pascual, who had the task of creating a banquet honoring the Viceroy, Don Juan de Palafox y Mendoza. The Friar was picking up after his untidy assistants and put a loose collection of spices on a tray when the wind blew the window open and the odd mix of spices was windswept into the dish of Casuelas he was preparing. Whoever had the first bite of Mole, he or she had the first mouthwatering taste of the deep, dark, thick sauce with the robust chile base...and heaven was born! 

Today, there are two focal points for Mexican Mole: 1) Puebla and 2) Oaxaca, though Veracruz is famous for "Mole Verde" (with Tomatillos and NO nuts or seeds), Guerrero features "Mole Verde" (with ground pumpkinseeds), Mexico City and Guadalajara play host to "Manchamanteles de Cerdo y Pollo" (simple Red Mole with Meat, Fowl and Fruit). Only Oaxaca boasts their exalted Seven Moles. Mole is a dish that is served at weddings and special occasions.

Basic Mole Paste

This great Mole paste is the basis of a terrific Mole sauce. To save time from the labors of making Mole from scratch, make a couple quarts of this paste and make into Mole sauce whenever you need it. To prepare the Mole sauce, just follow the easy instructions in Mole Sauce (from Basic Mole Paste). The paste will last in the freezer for several months. Enjoy! 

Ingredients

• 10 dried ancho chiles
• 6 dried pasilla negro (or negro) chiles
• 4 dried guajillo or mulato chiles
• 6 T black raisins
• 1/2 cup almonds
• 6 T raw sesame seeds
• 1/4 cup raw pumpkin seeds
• 1 slice French bread
• 1 corn tortilla
• One 3-inch piece of Mexican Canela (soft-bark cinnamon)
  OR 1 1/2 t ground cinnamon
• 6 whole cloves
• 1 t black peppercorns
• 1 1/2 t dried oregano
• 1 round of Ibarra Mexican Chocolate (3.1 oz.)

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Instructions:

Wash the dried chiles under cold running water (hot water will increase the chile fumes). Shake out the chile seeds and break off the stems.

Heat a comal or griddle or even a nonstick skillet and toast the chiles in batches. The chiles should soften and slightly brown. Do not blacken them, or they will become bitter...

When they are all toasted, place them in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave them to steep for 30 minutes. Add the raisins to the hot water so they will plump up.

While the chiles are soaking, place the almonds, the sesame seeds and the pumpkin seeds all in separate pie tins. Toast them in a 350 degree oven for approximately 10 minutes. Watch carefully. Remove them as they begin to turn golden brown.

At the same time, place the French bread and the corn tortilla to toast in the oven.

The toasting of all the nuts and seeds is traditionally done by frying them in lard; the oven method is easier and lower in fat.

Break up the cinnamon, cloves and peppercorns in a mortar or pound with a heavy skillet (a spice grinder will work too).

Grind the chilies almonds, sesame seeds and pumpkin seeds in a blender in at least three separate batches (too much fluid at once will BURN UP YOUR BLENDER!). Add some soaking water for the desired consistency of thick gravy (if soaking water tastes bitter, use plain water instead), so that the mole paste will puree smoothly.

When grinding the last batch, add the raisins, crushed spices, tortilla, bread, oregano and chocolate, broken into small pieces. Makes about 1 quart of mole paste or enough for 2 recipes of Mole Sauce (from Basic Mole Paste #1)

Mole Sauce

This easy sauce is based on the Mole Paste #1. Traditionally in Mexico, family cooks make batches of paste in advance and then make up whatever amount of sauce (or Mole "stew") they need on a particular day. There are many uses for this sauce. My favorite use is to pour the prepared sauce in a casserole dish with freshly grilled or barbequed sliced turkey breast and bake it for 10-20 minutes.

Ingredients

• 3 large tomatoes
• 1/2 onion
• 4 cloves garlic
• 2 t olive oil
• 2 cups (1/2 recipe) Mole Paste #1
• 1 to 2 cups chicken broth for thinning

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Instructions:

Place tomatoes in a small pan and roast in a preheated 375 degree oven for 20 minutes. Wrap the onion and garlic up in aluminum foil, drizzle with olive oil and roast for 45 minutes in the 375 degree oven.

Place tomatoes, their juices, onion and garlic in a blender and puree.

Add the puree to the Mole paste along with 1 cup of chicken broth. Bring to a simmer in a 3-quart pot. If the Mole seems too thick, add more broth in small amounts until it is the consistency of heavy cream. Makes about 6 cups.

Nutritional Analysis per 1/2 cup serving:

• 115 calories
• 4 g protein
• 16 g carbohydrates
• 5 g fat (1 g saturated fat)
• 0 mg cholesterol
• 12 mg sodium
• 2 g fiber.